3.7V Li-po Battery for SYMA S107 Original Factory Replacement Part S107G-19

Product Description

Has your Helicopter lost it is power. Will it no longer hold a Charge. This is a Factory Replacement three.7v Li-Po Battery. Light Soldering is Required.

Product Details

• Shipping Weight: 1 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
• ASIN: B004KGTM90
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: 255 in Toys ; Games (See Top 100 in Toys ; Games)
• 1 inToys ; Games Hobbies Radio Control Parts

By : Syma
Price : $5.45

Product Functions

• three.7v 150 mAh LI-Po Battery
• Original Factory Replacement
• In no way leave a Charging Battery Unattended

Consumer Critiques

I purchased this battery to perform some experiments with growing my flying time. This worked superb. I now average about 15-16 minutes flying time, and that is just until is begins to get a tiny weak. I could without difficulty go another couple of minutes, but I do not want to push the batteries that challenging, and it really is a lot much more enjoyable flying with charged batteries.
This modification is safe and straightforward. This is considering that these cells use safety circuits to limit more than discharge and over charge. There are a handful of precautions although:
1. Use two batteries of equal age. This means a new battery in a new heli and a new replacement battery, or two new replacement batteries. Do not mix a new replacement battery with an old, worn out battery.
2. Use two batteries of equal charge - preferably discharged. This is not essential, but it is superior to start with two discharged batteries so they do not have any important power if you accidentally brief one thing. Also, it just keeps everything in much better balance from the start off.
3. Hook up the batteries in parallel - red to red and black to black. This doubles the battery capacity and increases the flying time. If you hook them up in series (end to finish), you will double the voltage, which will burn out the motors if it doesn't fry the heli's circuit board (and you will not be able to charge them anyway).
This is how you make the modification. Initially, the new battery is in all probability totally discharged, so fly your heli until the battery is discharged (unless you are using two new cells). Then splice the new battery in parallel with the battery in the heli. I located it easiest to just cut out the existing battery, leaving about equal lengths of red and black wire. Then I trimmed the wires on the new battery to the very same length. I then stripped and tinned all the wire ends. I then soldered the two batteries together, red to red and black to black. Using the double sided tape that held in the old battery, I stuck them together. I then slid some heat shrink over the wires coming from the heli. I then lap soldered the battery wires to the heli wires, red to red and black to black. I then slid up the heat shrink more than the solder joint and shrunk it. You could also wrap the wires together and cover them with tape, but that is probably harder in the limited space, and they will not hold as well as solder. Then I removed the weight taped in the nose of the canopy. Lastly, you just locate the battery more than the battery holder (see photo) and slide on the canopy - it is a snug fit, so there is no require to tape down the battery.
With this easy modification, you will double your flying time - or more. Every battery has half the current getting drawn from it, so they sustain a greater voltage for a longer time. It is like the initially minute or two with a single battery, but for ten-12 minutes. Based on how difficult you fly, even following 14-15 minutes, you can nevertheless fly up to the ceiling. After about 15-16 minutes, I start out to notice that the heli is losing trim and it is tougher to retain lift. I could readily keep going a further couple of minutes, even flying in ground impact, but why push the batteries that tough. The down side is that it would quite possibly take three hours to recharge utilizing the USB cable charger. So rather, I am utilizing the wall plug charger that takes about 1.5 hours or less to completely charge the battery. The heli is also a little nose heavy, but I like that, and several many people add nose weights anyway. With the heavy nose, you continually have forward momentum, and I believe it is less difficult to control. You can also go really speedy in the forward direction, but really slow backwards and you can't really hover. You can also add counter weights to the tail (like the weight from the nose) if you do not like it.
Some other notes on battery life:
1. I estimate that the heli draws about 1.2A to maintain altitude.
2. Full throttle draws about 1.5A max with a totally charged battery, but typically about 1.35-1.4A.
3. Running the tail motor draws an additional .two-.25A.
four. The LED only draws about 12mA, or only 1% of your average present.
So you see, if you just preserve altitude, drift forward, and only turn ideal and left, you only draw abut 1.2A. But if you are regularly zipping up and down and forward and backward, you are drawing about 1.65A. I am possibly somewhere in the middle and I get a fantastic 15-16 minutes. Your outcomes might possibly vary.
-Cheers

Rather of soldering, just cut the lines that go to the battery currently in location about halway along, and just strip a tiny part and wrap the bare wire around the new batteries exposed wires and wrap in tape. No soldering required. 15 minutes max.